1. Bottom drains: Minimizing the debris on the pond floor gives a better aesthetic appearance but, more importantly limits the decaying debris that creates unwanted nitrites. Hopefully there is no/limited debris on       the pond floor. If there is debris it needs to be removed. Ideally design the pond so there is a drain every 10 feet feeding the pumps to automatically remove the debris (typically the drains have a 5′  radius effeteness) by sending the debris to the mechanical filter discussed below. This will limit your ongoing maintenance requirement, as well. Pond walls should be designed in a vertical fashion (18 to 24 inches ideally) so that debris does not collect. The floor should slope down towards the drain so the water flow assists in moving the debris to the drain. Without bottom drains you may need to remove the debris with other methods. This is important for pond clarity as well as other reasons related to chemical levels and fish health  (decaying organic forms matter forms, ammonia, nitrites, &  hydrogen sulfide gas – poisonous to fish)
2. Water flow: Koi are notoriously dirty in that they create more waste than other fish species. Filter flow requirements are typically twice that of ponds stocked with other fish. The general recommendation is to move the entire pond volume through the filtration every hour. Therefore, if you have a 2000 gallon pond you should have a system that moves 2000 gal/hr. This requirement can be met with a single or multiple pump system. The design will depend on your individual set-up. The addition of water features (fountains, waterfalls) and if it is desired to use a combination of two filters verses one can lead to numerous possibilities. There is no single exact right method.
3. Surface skimmer filtration: For the same reason as above it is desirable to have a surface skimmer to remove floating debris. This will prevent the need to continuously use a screen to remove floating debris and will put less of a load on your main mechanical/biological filter system.
4. Mechanical/Biological filtration: All ponds will create unwanted chemicals such as nitrites and ammonia. Bi-products from fish waste, dead and decaying leaves, decomposed fish food (make  sure you don’t over feed your fish) decaying aquatic plants/weeds, nearby fertilizers that drain/leak into the pond all can provide nutrients for algae growth and increase the production of bad bacteria that can harm koi resulting in sickness and death.  Most filters will incorporate both mechanical filtration to remove debris and biological filtration to remove unwanted chemicals. Biological filtration (beneficial bacteria) removes  ammonia (one type of bacteria changes ammonia to nitrite) and nitrites (another bacteria changes nitrites into nitrates which a much less hazardous to KOI – but still can be an issue if too much exists above 120 ppm. – remove with addition of plants or water changes). Ammonia & Nitrite level should be zero. Mechanical filtration along with properly located drains and skimmers discussed above will reduce many of these items in your pond as a way to attack the problem. However, they are not sufficient alone. The addition of biological filtration is necessary to get rid of the nutrients and chemicals. The good, or ”beneficial” bacteria discussed above will consume the same nutrients as algae. So, beneficial bacteria can starve out algae, thus resulting in a clearer pond. Beneficial bacteria also breaks down sludge build up, “muck” on the bottom of koi and fish ponds. What do you need to do to establish some beneficial bacteria in your pond? In addition to the biological filter media, rocks, plants, and gravel can provide a place for this bacteria to grow. Establishing a nice colony of beneficial bacteria can take 3-8 weeks but you can get a ”jump start” on things by adding some beneficial bacteria booster to you pond. One popular product is called Microbe-Lift.
5. Choosing a filter size & design: This is a complicated question and depends on the filter deign you have chosen. There are two basic choices, gravity and pressurized:
1. In general, most gravity flow filters are more efficient at removing sold waste and provide a better environment for growing beneficial bacteria. They lack the easy backwash cleaning option of pressure filters, though. With gravity filters, in general, the bigger the filter is in comparison to the pump flow the more effective it will be because it utilizes dwell time for both mechanical and biological filtration. If you are flowing 2000 g/hr you may want to consider a filter that can handle 3000 to 3500 g/hr. The larger filter will slow the flow in the filter area making it more effective. Water is pumped from the pond or water feature into the filter and then flows back into the pond by gravity. These filters must sit above the water level of the pond and are usually placed at the pond’s edge. External gravity pond filters typically have a reusable/replaceable filter pad for mechanical filtration and permanent biological filter media. These pond filters are easily maintained and installed, and due to increased capacity for filter media, are generally more efficient and can handle larger debris loads than submersible pond filters. Many gravity  flow filters are designed in conjunction with a skimmer (see above) and waterfall.  The submersible pump flows water from the skimmer to the waterfall (located on the opposite side of the pond from the skimmer for single pump systems). After the water flows through the gravity filter at the top of the waterfall the water cascades down to the pond adding the benefit of aeration to the water. Installation of this type of gravity fed filter is usually more involved than with simpler gravity filters or pressure filters.
2. Pressurized filters are typically sold in combined units of mechanical and biological filtration. They are easier to install (waterfalls are not required) and can be placed underground out of sight. In addition the back-flow cleaning can be much easier than cleaning the gravity filter. One known issue is that the increased load of koi ponds can cause the biological area to become overrun with particles and thus make it less effective. The result is frequent required cleaning intervals. This can be handled by oversizing the filter. A typical guideline is to double the filter size relative to the pump flow. If pump flow is 2000 g/r than you would use a 4000 /hr filter. Unfortunately, there are minimum flow requirements for filters and a 4000 g/hr filter may have a minimum flow requirement greater than 2000 g/hr. You will need to know the filter specification requirements when choosing the filter. The retailer should be able to provide this if it is not readily advertised for a particular filter. Finally, this issue can be avoided if you use two separate filter. In this case you would have a pump feeding a mechanical filter which would in turn feed clean water to ta separate biological filter. In this case you would not need to oversize the biological filter since it is getting fed clean water.

Aeration: Any fish require a pond with good quality water and koi are not different. Oxygenation of the water is an important part of water quality.  For this reason a waterfall, aerator or fountain should be considered in the design. High levels of oxygen inhibit the growth of unwanted ‘bad’ bacteria that can harm your fish. This      also provides nice aesthetics to the pond. Fountains can be used with with a dedicated pump or with a diverter that splits the flow from a pump so that partial flow goes to a filter and the rest of the flow going to the fountain. Many waterfalls are designed with incorporation of a gravity flow filter (discussed in article 3) to combine the two functions.

Algae control: This can be a complicated subject for koi care. Many pond designers will advise that an algae issue is simply a symptom of another problem that needs to be addressed. In addition koi can enhance their color by eating certain kinds of algae. Therefore it may not be appropriate to remove any possibility of algae growth in your pond design. On the other hand, even with good design and maintenance in high sun loading environments it may be difficult to control algae. Too much algae is not only unsightly but can use up oxygen in the water depriving your fish of proper oxygen levels. Therefore it may be advisable to deign your filtration system with the ability to add UV filtration. In this way a UV filter can be easily installed in-line with your mechanical/biological filter. You can leave out the UV filter in the initial design and add it later if necessary. If there is an issue, control of algae can be first be attempted using algae fix or barley straw which can be moderated to produce less or more algae kill. In addition bi-products from fish waste, dead and decaying leaves (see filtration section), decomposed fish food (make sure you don’t over feed your fish) decaying aquatic plants and weeds, and nearby chemicals and fertilizers that filter into the pond can provide nutrients for algae growth. Reducing these items in your pond is a way to attack the problem as well. Along the same lines you can get rid of the nutrients in your pond by adding/increasing beneficial bacteria to your pond which consume these same nutrients thereby starving out algae. Certain deep water plants such as lilies will also use these nutrients to and further crowd out the algae food source. If more invasive action is required you can use copper sulfate or installation of an inline UV filter.

Plants: Plants provide shade and security as well as oxygen for fish. Fish waste provides food for the plants. Therefore, as stated earlier, the nutrients in fish waste fee algae so plants can be helpful in algae control. KOI will eat plants & dig for roots. Therefore provide a barrier to restrict access to the plant by the fish.

Pump sizing: All pumps reduce flow when the pump final output is lifted above the pond surface. The energy required to lift the water results in this loss. The manufacture will supply this information for any      pump design and is usually described as the pump flow at a given ‘head’. The head is the distance above the pond surface that the water is being lifted. Be sure to consider this loss when designing a pump if you are      required to lift the water (waterfall for example) above the surface of the pond. Note that this is a concern only for lifting water ABOVE THE SURFACE of the pond and is measured from the pond surface to the required      height.

Piping: It is important to consider the size of pipe/tubing used in your design. If the diameter is too small you will see flow losses and as a result the pump will not perform at the rated flow capacity. This will result in lower flow than intended (less filtration) and tax the pump needlessly. As a guideline consider the following minimum pipe diameters for required flow:

Flows up to (gph)        Use at least pipe ID (inches)

240                              0.5
480                              0.75
750                              1.0
1350                            1.25
1950                            1.5
3150                            2.0
9000                            3.0

In this first article we’ll deal with the basic physical layout of the pond. How we approach this layout can greatly reduce maintenance and fish health issues.

•  How many fish should you stock? There are different views on stocking depending on the source of the information. One common standard is about 5 – 6 fish per 1000 gal. Assumes all fish are 21″ or larger in length (full maturity). Different concentrations can be accommodated with more/less filtering than recommended below but it is not advisable to vary too much from this standard on the high side. Design the pond with the assumption that your smaller fish will grow to maturity and still meet this requirement.
• Water Volume & Depth: There should be significant sections of the pond that are 3-5 feet in depth (approximately 40% of the pond surface area). This allows for two important functions. First, it allows for an area the fish can go to that has less day to day temperature variation than in shallower parts of the pond. This can be very important in the hot summer days allowing for a cool place for the koi congregate. Second, in colder climates the winter will likely form a 6-10 inch layer of ice on the surface. There needs to be a volume of water that is warmer that will not freeze. The deeper water allows for this this area and gives the fish a place to hibernate. Make sure you plan to have a de-ice heater in the winter to allow toxic gas to escape the pond in an opening in the ice. Pond walls should be designed in a vertical fashion (18 to 24 inches ideally) so that flow is present up to the wall and therefore debris does not collect. In addition, you do not want to create an area where predators can wade in the pond to catch your expensive fish. A 24” drop off will help make this possible.
• Pond shape: Design the pond so that dead areas in flow are not available. Dead flow allow debris to build in these areas and as a result require manual cleaning. As an example a circular shaped pond will allow  you to design flow so that it swirls around the pond. This will limit dead flow areas. Conversely, if there are areas that jut out on their own like fingers there will tend to be limited/no flow. These areas will collect debris. It is not necessary to have a completely circular shape but the idea of constant flow in all areas of the pond needs to be considered int he design of the shape.
• Flow direction considerations: The outlet of the pump(s) or filter(s)should be located to force flow along the outer circumference of the pond. Along with the proper pond shape/depth discussed above this helps eliminate dead flow spots in the pond where debris can accumulate. Ideally debris will stay in motion until it is sucked up by a filter drain or skimmer. This helps make an effective self-cleaning, low  maintenance design.We spent a lot of time discussing limiting the debris in the pond. Some debris will collect and the next article discuss what the concerns this presents and how to deal with this inevitable issue. In addition we discuss aretion, flow requriements, plants, and general filtration and more.

The following list is a recommendation of plants that are best pruned in spring. There will, of course, be exceptions. Any plant that is diseased, infested, or otherwise in poor condition, should be pruned in the fall. Consider this listing as guidelines. You will learn what works and what doesn’t, for your own garden.

Suggested Perennial Plants to Prune in the Spring

• Artemisia
  Most Artemisia don’t like being pruned in the fall. The growth that results is too tender to survive the winter and the dieback is often enough to kill the whole plant. Clean in early spring. ( USDA Zones 5 – 9 )
• Asters
  Fall blooming asters have generally been pinched and forced several times throughout the growing season. Once they are finally allowed to bloom, they appreciate being left alone to recuperate, until spring. Several bloom so late into the fall, the question of fall clean-up becomes moot. ( USDA Zones 4 – 8 )
• Astilbe
  Astilbe don’t require much maintenance. Fall clean-up is unnecessary and may weaken the plant’s tolerance for cold. Minimal spring clean-up is required. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Balloon Flower (Platycodon grandiflorus)
  If pruned for sturdiness, Balloon flower blooms late in the season and remains attractive until frost. Since it is late emerging in the spring, it helps to leave the old foliage as a marker. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Basket-of-Gold (Aurinia saxatilis)
  Although Aurinia fares best and lives longer if sheared back after flowering and not allowed to go to seed, the foliage can be evergreen in mild winters and there doesn’t seem to be any benefit to cutting it back until spring. (USDA Zones 3 – 7 )
• Bear’s Breeches (Acanthus spinosus)
  You may need to cut back old, dying foliage throughout the growing season, but the new healthy growth remaining in the fall could well remain evergreen throughout the winter, depending on weather conditions. (USDA Zones 6 – 10)
• Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida)
  Although not particularly attractive in winter, the seed heads will feed the birds. (USDA Zones 3 – 9 )
• Blue Mist Shrub (Caryopteris)
  Caryopteris bloom on new growth. Cut back to 6-8 inches in the spring. Newer varieties, especially, can be very sensitive to cold and shouldn’t be cut back until buds begin to green. (USDA Zones 5 – 9 )
• Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii)
  To lessen winter kill, wait for signs of green at the base and then cut back to 6 – 10 inches. (USDA Zones 6 – 9 )
• Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa)
  Although Asclepias is a prolific self-seeder and should be deadheaded if dozens of new plants are not wanted, it winters better if the foliage is allowed to protect the crown. (USDA Zones 4 – 9 )
• Campanula
  Most campanulas get sheared back at some point during the summer, to clean up ugly or damaged foliage and encourage another flush of blooming. Fresh basal foliage will result and should be left through winter, so as not to encourage more tender growth in the fall. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
  Although Cardinal Flower likes moist soil, it doesn’t like sitting in cold, wet soil all winter. Leaving the foliage and flower stems in tact protects Cardinal Flower from some of the ravages of winter, so hold off clean-up until spring. At that point, you can trim the damaged areas or simply cut back to the ground. (USDA Zones 3 – 9 )
• Coral Bells (Heuchera)
  Heuchera are prone to heaving in soils that freeze and thaw. Leaving the foliage in tact helps to mulch the plants through winter. (USDA Zones 4 – 9 )
• Cushion Spurge (Euphorbia polychroma)
  In warmer climates, Euphorbia can actually become a shrub and it’s fine to leave the plant alone until spring and then clean out the dead foliage. In colder climates, simply cut the plant back to its base in the spring. (USDA Zones 4 – 8 )
• Delphinium
  If you’re lucky enough to grow Delphiniums as perennials, remove the flower stalks, but allow the foliage to remain until spring. (USDA ones 3 – 7 )
• Dianthus
  Most Dianthus can remain somewhat evergreen throughout the winter and nothing is gained by cutting back in the fall. They will still need some clean-up in the spring. (USDA Zones 5 – 8 ) Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) Tiarella enjoys the cool days of fall and may remain evergreen throughout the winter. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Foxglove, Perennial (Digitalis purpurea)
  Since perennial Foxgloves are usually pruned back after flowering and produce a rosette of basal growth, nothing more is needed until a light cleaning in spring. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Fringed Leaf Bleeding Heart (Dicentra formosa / eximia)
  Although the crowns like to be high enough in the soil to be protected from dampness, the foliage is slight enough to leave for the winter and almost disappears by spring. (USDA Zones 3 – 9 )
• Gas Plant (Dictamnus albus)
  The seed heads of the Gas Plant can look attractive well into fall, but the real reason to cut back in early spring is that the sap that irritates many gardener’s skin is not as pronounced during the plant’s dormant stage. (USDA Zones 3 – 9 )
• Gayfeather (Liatris spicata)
  Liatris is another plant that is more sensitive to cool, wet soil than to cold temperatures. When left standing over winter, the seed heads provide food for the birds and may provide some self-seeding, to make up for any plants that don’t survive. (USDA Zones 3 – 9 )
• Geum
  Geum can remain semi-evergreen throughout winter, so no fall pruning is necessary, especially if you’ve been deadheading and cleaning up dead leaves during the growing season. (USDA Zones 5 – 7 )
• Globe Thistle (Echinops ritro)
  Much like coneflowers, Echinops will respond well to a pruning in July, producing more flowers and sturdier plants that will stand for the winter and feed the birds. The plant’s winter survival seems improved if not cut back hard in the fall. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Goldenrod (Solidago)
  The new hybrid goldenrods don’t seed or spread all over the garden and can be left standing for winter interest. Study clumpers, like ‘Fireworks’ and ‘Golden Fleece’, will remain upright through spring. The old-fashioned species Solidago should be cut in fall, to avoid invasiveness. (USDA 2 – 8 )
• Heartleaf Bergenia (Bergenia cordifolia)
  The shiny round leaves ca remain evergreen in mild winters and even cold damaged leaves can remain an attractive bronze color. Clean-up in spring, only as needed. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Hosta
  Although Hosta foliage gets ugly over winter, some Hosta varieties can be damaged by spring frosts and benefit from the protection of the collapsed foliage. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Italian Bugloss (Anchusa azurea)
  Much like Amsonia, Anchusa looks better and self-seeds less if sheared back after flowering. Anchusa can be sheared all the way back to the crown, since its foliage declines rapidly after flowering. But then allow the plant to recover and don’t cut again until spring. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Joe-Pye Weed (Eupatorium maculatum )
  When a plant is bred from a common weed, you can usually assume that it doesn’t need much care to survive. Joe-Pye will bloom well into the fall and then produce fluffy seed heads. You can cut it back if you choose, but it’s not necessary to the plant’s survival. (USDA Zones 2 – 9 )
• Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis)
  Lady’s Mantle doesn’t really like to be sheared back frequently. Occasional shearing or selective deleafing may be necessary because of sun scorch, but Lady’s Mantle will over winter better if left in tact and cleaned up in the spring. (USDA Zones 4 – 7 )
• Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina)
  There’s no point in trying to clean up Lamb’s Ear for the winter. Let it be and remove winter damage when the leaves perk up in the spring. (USDA 4 – 8 )
• Lavender (Lavandula)
  Many areas have a hard time over-wintering lavender. The problem is more often moisture than cold, but cold is a factor. Don’t prune lavender late in the season, as new growth is extremely cold sensitive. Wait until new growth appears in the spring before removing winter die back. (USDA Zones 5 – 9 )
• Lavender Cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus)
  As with Lavender above, Santolina needs time to harden before winter. Don’t prune at all, after mid-August and wait until new growth appears in the spring before pruning. (USDA Zones 6 – 8 )
• Lupine (Lupinus)
  Lupines are temperamental, short-lived perennials and they do not enjoy winter. Leave the foliage on for protection and hope for the best come spring. (USDA Zones 4 – 6 )
• Mums (Chrysanthemum)
  Leave the foliage in tact to protect the plant’s crown. All the better to let the flowers bloom well into the fall. (USDA Zones 5 – 9 )
• Oriental Poppy (Papaver orientale)
  Poppies appear to be ephemeral, disappearing or declining after the blooms fade. However a new flush of foliage should emerge and can be left on the plants over winter, to act as a mulch. (USDA Zones 3 – 7 )
• Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa columbaria)
  You can remove the old flower stems, but this plant is so temperamental, leaving the old foliage may be the only way you will know where the plant was, come spring. In warmer areas, where it is hardier, the foliage may be evergreen. (USDA Zones 5 – 7 )
• Plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides)
  There’s not much left to this plant in winter. But many gardeners like to leave it standing so they’ll remember where it is, since it is late to emerge in the spring. (USDA Zones 5 – 9 )
• Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea)
  Coneflowers don’t look terribly attractive in winter, but they do attract and feed birds. If you’d like both birds and aesthetics, you can always prune your coneflowers in July and get squat, sturdy plants that will provide seed and remain standing. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Queen-of-the-Prairie /Queen-of-the-Meadow (Filipendula rubra / Filipendula ulmaria)
  Prairie or meadow, these tall plants almost always flop over before spring and can be cut back in the fall, after blooming. (USDA Zones 3 – 9 )
• Red-Hot Poker (Kniphofia)
  You can trim back the foliage as it begins to decline, but don’t cut it back entirely. The crown is very sensitive to cold and leaving a clump of foliage will help protect it. Trimming by ½ will keep the foliage from completely flopping over and retaining too much moisture around the crown. (Zones 5 – 9 )
• Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)
  Like its cousin Lavender, Perovskia doesn’t like to be trimmed back in that fall, because it’s tender growth is too sensitive to cold. Wait until new growth appears in the spring and then cut back to about 6 – 8″. If the only new growth is from the base of the plant, the entire top woody section has died back and it can be pruned to the ground. (USDA Zones 5 – 9 )
• Sea Lavender (Limonium latifolium)
  The flowers are held so high on this airy plant that it’s easy to forget the cluster of leaves at the base. Go ahead and forget them. Let them be for the winter and clean-up any die back in the spring. (USDA Zones 3 – 9 )
• Sea Holly (Eryngium)
  It’s the rare Eryngium that isn’t cut back for drying, but a good deadheading in late summer will encourage a flush of basal growth that will carry the plants through winter. No further fall pruning should be done. (Zones 3 – 8 )
• Sedum
  Many of the tall Sedums can remain attractive throughout the winter, even holding caps of snow on their flowerheads. ‘Autumn Joy’, in particular, holds up very well. The basal foliage appears very early in spring, so Sedum can be one of the first plants you prune in the spring. (USDA Zones 3 – 10 )
• Tickseed (Coreopsis)
  Like Chelone, most coreopsis seem to fare better if allowed to stand during the winter and cleaned-up in the spring. (USDA Zones 4 – 9 )
• Turtlehead (Chelone lyonii)
  Keeping the foliage on until spring seems to improve Chelone’s winter survival. (USDA Zones 3 – 8 )
• Valarian, Jupiter’s Beard (Centranthus ruber)
  To be honest, I don’t have much luck keeping this plant alive through winter. But I’m told that cutting it back to about 6 – 8 inches in late summer and then leaving that new growth over winter, increase the plant’s chance of survival. I’ll let you know. (USDA Zones 5 – 8 )
• Wand Flower (Guara)
  Guara is such a short-lived perennial that allowing the flowers to remain and possibly self-seed may be the only way you’ll see another Guara pop up in the garden next spring. (USDA Zones 6 – 9 )
• Willow Amsonia (Amsonia tabernaemontana)
  Amsonia holds it’s shape better if sheared by about 1/3 after flowering. You’ll lose the seed pods, but you’ll prevent rampant self seeding. However after this initial shearing, Amsonia responds better to being cut back in the spring, rather than the fall. Spring pruning seems to rejuvenate it. (USDA Zones 3 – 9 )

PowerGear Bypass Pruner

Keeping your yard/garden looking well groomed will be made easier by utilizing a few good garden shears.  Garden cutting tools are called garden shears.

There are two types of garden shears: the most common  shear the Bypass Pruner looks like a  bird’s beak.   Bypass Pruners are the most popular pruner for beginner gardeners.  They are perfect for dead-heading flowers or cutting roses. They make a   clean cut using two curved blades that “bypass” each other in the same way as a pair of scissors.  The  outside edge blade is sharpened and it slips by a thicker unsharpened blade. The scissor alignment increases their cutting ability.  The Bypass Pruners can be used to do most of your garden pruning. They work are simple to use and work just like like scissors.   The cut is made as the blade passes through the flat base.   The Bypass Pruner is easy to use and is easy on the hand.

The manufacture Fiskars has a great variety of Bypass Pruners styles from the basic the  Bypass Pruners with a 5/8 cutting capacity to the PowerGear Bypass Pruner with a  3/4″ cutting capacity.  The PowerGears are made to complement your hand’s natural dynamics and magnify your cutting strength. Powergears are great for gardeners with limited grip strength because it is designed to minimize muscle strain

The other major pruner type is the Anvil Pruners that has a single straight cutting blade that closes down on a flat edge or anvil.  Anvil pruners have a slicing action similar to a knife and  pinch the wood between the blade and a base. Anvil Pruners  are perfect to remove tough, dead wood and do non-exacting work such as thinning shrubs. They are a little bulkier than bypass pruners.  Again, there are basic Anvil Pruners and  the more ergonomic  Power-Lever Anvil Pruner that is designed to be comfortable when using.

If you are a beginner gardener, then all you need to start with is a Bypass Pruner.

Just add seeds and water to the tray of 72 Jiffy pellets, plug it in, and watch the growth begin! A heating pad and protective dome keep this greenhouse at the ideal temperature for seed germination and seedling growth.

Fortunately, with hydroponic production, seeds are not left to take their chances out in the soil where the elements may play havoc with the germination process. With protected cultivation we can control moisture, temperature and oxygen levels with a number of means.

The ergonomic handle design with a soft gel-grip insert that cushions the hand and provides maximum comfort. The blade is made of strong stainless steel to provide maximum durability.

Stainless Steel Ergo Gel Grip Hand Trowel

Ergo Gel Grip Hand Soil Scoop

Ergo Gel Grip Hand Weeder

Ergo Gel Grip Hand Transplanter

Ergo Gel Grip Hand Cultivator

Pictured to the right is the ergo gel grip hand weeder.  It is used for weeding and small root removal. The tool is perfectly sized for flower beds and small vegetable gardens. The weeder features an ergonomic handle design with a soft gel-grip insert that cushions the hand and provides maximum comfort. The head is of made of strong stainless steel for the most durability. Great for gardening in tight spaces, as well as open gardens.

For anyone that suffers from arthritis or joint pain, these Gel Grip new tools by Ames can be a life-saver!

You want to protect not only yourself, but your gear and clothing too.

Coleman Gear & Clothing Treatment is specifically designed to repel and kill many biting insects for up to two weeks. This product is ideal for the treatment of shoes, clothes, nets, gear and tents, but should never be applied directly to the skin. It lasts up to two weeks through several washes and repels and kills mosquitoes, ticks and mites.

Coleman Gear & Clothing Treatment also features a new and improved can.

This can is rust resistant and significantly lighter than other repellents and features a locking cap that prevents children from dispensing.

Additionally, it features an up and down sprayer that allows for spraying from any angle.

When is the proper time to apply Corn Gluten Meal?

1. Right after the snow melts.
2. When the Forsythia is in bloom.
3. When the Lilac is in bloom.
4. Two weeks before an over seeding.

If you answered 2, you’re correct. In cooler climates, weed seeds germinate at the same time the Forsythia blooms.

Corn gluten should be watered after it has been spread, but only applied with an assurance of 4-5 days of dry weather afterwards. The dry days are crucial to the product’s ability to control weeds.

Grass seed should not be applied until 6-8 weeks after corn gluten application.

Which solution should I buy:

1. Organic Traditions Corn Gluten 25 lbs
2. Concern Weed Prevention with Corn Gluten
3. Organic Weed Control by Jonathon Green
4. Any of the above.

If you answered 4, you’re correct!

The seeds from crabgrass will multiply from one year to the next and soon the crabgrass is using all the water and nutrients that your grass so dearly needs. The vicious cycle continues until you have a lawn full of crabgrass.

Fortunately, you can control crabgrass.  While you will probably have some crabgrass appear sporadically throughout the growing season, it will not take over your lawn if properly taken care of.
Prevention

First of all, prevent crabgrass from growing.

1. Try to maintain a thick, dense lawn so crabgrass is suffocated by the good grass. This means applying grass seed and keeping your grass watered from spring until fall.
2. There are also a “pre-emergent” crabgrass herbicides that are used to prevent crabgrass, and can work well if applied in early spring.
3. If a frost occurs, it will not work, so be sure you apply it after the last frost of the year!

Time of Year

It is best to start applying your crabgrass killer early in the spring, as soon as you see the first sign of crabgrass.

Applying it before it becomes well rooted into the soil, the easier it will be to kill. It will also kill the crabgrass before it has a chance to reseed for next year.

Keep crabgrass killer on hand until the fall for continual application whenever you see crabgrass begin to grow.

Time of Day

It is best to apply the crabgrass killer early in the morning (after the dew has dried), especially on extremely hot days that will reach above 90 degrees F. This will allow for maximum absorption of the product for better effectiveness.